AUSTRALIA – Down-Under

“Ladies and gentlemen, we are just overflying the Ayers Rock in central Australia. I don’t want you to miss it. Please remain seated and I will roll the plane first right and then left so all of you can see,” – announced the captain of a huge Boeing-747.  With the clear-blue skies over most of deserty Australia we had a memorable view of this remarkable rock formation. If we were on the radar of some extra-terrestrials, they must have been perplexed at this plane’s strange behavior in the middle of nowhere.

Academic sabbatical year is a fantastic institution. 
This time, I could not go any farther – Australia is almost on the opposite side of the globe
from Montreal. I decided to fly via Europe and Bangkok.  As all flights go to Sydney –I changed planes and continued on to Melbourne where this Visiting Professor arranged for a stay with the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology as it was called then - and there I was. 

Australia is in many aspects similar to Canada – but pleasantly warmer.  The coldest south shores, close to Melbourne are beautifully scenic – just look here at the seashore rock formation called the Twelve Apostles. We were wandering close by, looking for local seaweeds that we could use for our metal biosorption research. And that supply of different algae species kept us busy then for another year.

I also had another invitation from the University of Queensland to spend about two months with them in Brisbane – some lectures, some research and an interesting challenge that haunted me for months to come. Their Department of Chemical Engineering was granted an island facility and did not know what to do with it. Well, it really was a small laboratory building on a tiny island right on the Great Barrier Reef. We made a little expedition to check it out there and brainstorm as to what with it. It was about an hour’s ride on a motor boat from Port Douglas. It is far north from Brisbane, so we flew to Cairns. Then got picked up by the lab’s one-man crew who drove us to Port Douglas where we boarded his small motor boat and set off.

I did not know that this all was a ride to a paradise (Low Isles).
Or sort of, on the one side. On the other, our brainstorming often bumped into what is called a “feasibility”. The lab was in a house with a simple dormitory for the crew. It even had electricity from a generator of a nearby (government) lightouhse. But fresh water was, of course, in a short supply on a tiny island that one could walk around in about 10-15 minutes. However, the location, the small island, was a paradise sitting on top of a magical coral reef.

To cut a long story short – while this was an absolutely fairy-tale paradise location, it was somewhat ‘unfeasible’ to make a progressive use of it or develop it as a prospective science base. A small simple base – perhaps. In other words, lots of our wishful thinking evaporated when confronted with small-island realities, our imagination just failed us. Upon a closer look, a “paradise” may not always be sustainable. It would perhaps take some billionaire to buy the whole thing up and visit it every once in a while to enjoy the crystal-clear ocean surroundings and dive to his heart’s delight. This way, a boat with a few tourists anchors close by sometimes, its passengers use it as a base for snorkeling and diving. Then they have a supper comfortably onboard and - depart for the mainland which is so beutiful - and so comfortable throughout.

Maybe the place could serve as one of a bigger network of sampling points monitoring the reef health as it is suffering from the nutrient pollution creeping from the mainland intensive agriculture. You see, I got smitten and all excited there – and keep thinking just WHAT to do with such a place. I suspect that this little island paradise nowadays still keeps on going low key, the way it has been for a long-long time – and it may be the right way after all -

Deflated, our little expedition returned back to our home base in Brisbane.  I should perhaps mention the nearby Gold Coast as another Australian seaside playground. Not surprisingly, Australians are obsessed with the ocean and they are very sporty in general. I have never seen as many sailing regatta broadcasts as there – with such enthusiastic sailors and their audience. And the city of Sydney lives by its beaches and surfers – more than by its famous Sydney Opera.

When I was attending an international conference in Sydney, suddenly a face I knew appeared in front of me. It was my former Iranian student with a big smile. Not even finishing her degree with us in Montreal, fond of the Iranian revolution then, she  returned home – only to be heavily persecuted and seeing her brother killed. Ten years passed by before she was able to escape and ended up in Australia, getting a professional job and living a happy family life. It was a pleasure to see her.
I eventually returned, via Sydney and Los Angeles, completing the other half of my one and only around-the-world journey. But the world “down-under” left a lasting impression.

Too bad that Australia has been so distant so far. But it is getting closer these days and emigrants from South-East Asia, Indonesia, China, even the Middle East are streaming to the “empty continent” – bringing with them also their tastes in food and dishes from all over the world that are gaining stronger and tastier prominence in traditional and rather bland British-based Aussie cuisine.

Australia has been known for its very unique fawna - Kangaroo meat is widely available in Australia, although it is not among the most commonly eaten meats. Also eaten (in specialist restaurants) is emu meat and crocodile meat. Although not found in mainstream restaurants, I tried all three meat types and found them somewhat similar to beef, chicken and veal, respectively.

 



The LATEST NEWS (March 24, 2016) :
“Worst Coral Bleaching Event’ to Hit Australia’s GreatBarrier Reef”
The extreme bleaching event, which began several weeks ago near Lizard Island off Australia’s northeast coast, has prompted the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority to raise its response level to its highest level (3). This allows for greater surveying and monitoring of the fragile reef ecosystem.

NEW ZEALAND – Nature & Sheep

Looong time ago, when we were carefree university students, we built up a challenge for our small group who would be the first one to reach New Zealand – the most distant place from our birthplace Praha. The point was not the distance, but actually the impossibility to travel out from the communist “paradise” that held us. One way or another, after some years, eventually, some of us made it abroad and then - I was not the first one of us to reach New Zealand !  Another friend who resided in Toronto became the first and then – I was the second. Spending a good part of my academic sabbatical year in Australia, one cannot and should not miss the opportunity to make that remaining little hop and see scenic New Zealand. How relative, the Kiwi-land is 1,500 km away from Australia. Because of its remoteness, it was one of the last lands to be settled by humans.

During its long isolation, New Zealand developed a distinctive biodiversity of animal (see the Kiwi bird here), fungal and plant life. Apart from many smaller islands, the land mass of New Zealand is divided into two main ones the South and the North Islands.

As it is not crammed with people, the country makes a “quiet” and rather bucolic impression. Actually, it is rather “pastoral” – with 10 times as many sheep as people in it. The lifestyle is definitely more laid back and it seemed simpler. My high-tech nature would have probably been having a hard time if I were to decide emigrating to the isolation of New Zealand as we dreamt of it way back then, about 50 years ago -

In the world down-under, the issue of aboriginal population is very close underneath the thin western and specifically British ‘civilization’ veneer.  In 1642, Abel Tasman, a Dutch explorer, became the first European to sight New Zealand, first settled by Eastern Polynesians between 1250 and 1300 concluding a long series of voyages through the southern Pacific islands.  Over the centuries that followed, these settlers developed a distinct culture now known as Māori.  The Europeans did not revisit until 1769 when British explorer James Cook mapped almost the entire coastline and established the British influence.  In the Kiwi-land of New Zealand, the Maori aboriginals are much more pronounced and visible than Australian aboriginals are there, particularly to the tourists whereby their culture and habits are often on display in the way of ‘history’.
Among many things that the westerners brought into New Zealand were the potato and the musket. As the Maori picked it up, it transformed their agriculture - and warfare ! Potatoes provided a reliable food surplus, which enabled longer and more sustained military campaigns. The resulting intertribal Musket Wars encompassed over 600 battles between 1801 and 1840, killing 30,000–40,000 Māori. Human race !
Combining my trip with the opportunity to participate in the International Food Engineering Conference that was taking place in Palmerston North, I flew Sydney – Auckland, rented a car and set out to the hills of the North Island. Out of Auckland, herds of sheep scattered through the hilly countryside were inescapable.
As I drove to Palmerston North, I remember the countryside around that destination as a quiet and rather untypically flat and unexciting corner of the island – as opposed to the rest of it that is anything but like that.  With my Massey University visit and conference contacts in Palmerston North behind me, I was free to explore which I did in a form of a circular trip around the scenic and lush green North Island.

The North Island is less mountainous but is marked by volcanism. The highly active Taupo Volcanic Zone has formed a large volcanic plateau, punctuated by the North Island's highest mountain, Mount Ruapehu (2,797 metres (9,177 ft)). The plateau also hosts the country's largest lake, Lake Taupo, nestled in the caldera of one of the world's most active supervolcanoes. I could not miss the sleeping giant of Rotorua, the heart of the North Island, that oozes geothermal activity in the form of hot springs, geysers and bubbling mud pools.  There somewhere I took off on a rather adventurous side trip on a little jungle road as it appeared, rewarded by a little experience of the local fern forest (that;s what I called it).

I had never seen before ferns more than 3 meters tall ! 
I got stuck there several times but, eventually, made it back to ‘civilization’ – but no time to keep going South to at least get the smell of Wellington, “the coolest little capital in the world”. Thus not even catching a glimpse across the Cook Straight (22 km) of the South Island fabulous mountains.

Although I did not get to see the Alpine-like South Island, I cannot leave it out here – with a wishful thought of returning there some time. The mountain range extends 500 km down the Island and the tallest peak is Aoraki / Mount Cook, the highest point in New Zealand at 3,724 metres (12,218 ft) and there are sixteen other points in the range that exceed 3,000 metres (9,800ft) in height. The South Island and its “alps” are still a little visited extremely beautiful place in the world. 
Look at Lake Ohau in summer time (above) and the panoramic view of the mountains in winter time :

And what do the Kiwies eat ?
New Zealand cuisine is largely driven by local ingredients and seasonal variations. An island nation with a primarily agricultural economy, New Zealand yields produce from land and sea. Similar to the cuisine of Australia, the cuisine of New Zealand is a diverse British-based cuisine, with Mediterranean and Pacific Rim influences as the country is becoming more cosmopolitan. Needles to say, mutton and beef meat as well as seafood are ubiquitous. The British heritage of fish and chips even more so :

The country’s Pacific Rim cuisine is based on its abundance of wonderful fresh produce. Tender lamb, beef, pork, venison, succulent green-lipped mussels, Bluff oysters, crayfish (lobster), paua (abalone), whitebait, scallops, salmon, deep-sea fish and, of course, kiwifruit. With over 40 million sheep in a country of 4 million people it is no surprise that lamb is a principal meal ingredient. Canterbury lamb is world-renowned, and is usually served as roast meal with fresh peas, carrots, pumpkin, potatoes and kumara (sweet potato). Lean pork, beef and farm-bred venison (cervena) are also of the highest quality and relatively inexpensive.
Māori cooked food in earth ovens, known in New Zealand as hāngi and, in geothermal areas, food was boiled or steamed using natural hot springs and pools.
New Zealanders regard the meat pie as a part of New Zealand cuisine, and it is said to form part of the New Zealand national identity.

GERMANY – United Mahlzeit

Walking across a biochemical plant’s spacious courtyard in Frankfurt around noontime, I heard “Mahlzeit” as a greeting from everybody around. No wonder – we were on our way to the company’s cafeteria. There is a broader meaning to this meal-related greeting wish but basically it concerns “food” - and its consumption. It has come to my mind now that I am writing this - and so more about it at the food morsel section here below.

Needless to say, I have been to Germany many-many times for a number of reasons apart from those professional ones. It is the powerful heart of Europe and I used to reside right next to it in the Czech Republic. From many trips to Germany – perhaps writing less is more. Go there, it is smoothly accessible with lots to be experienced and seen.
Germany united -

Only the Germans could have absorbed the shock of the Soviet empire demise in 1989 as they just accommodated those 16 million of East Germans who then fell into the pangermanic fold. An amazing feat ! I vividly remember the difference between the two states – the West and the East Germanies and now I want to mention something almost between them. Their historic border skirted the Harz Mountains. Among many, there is an interesting hill there called Rammelsberg (635 m), with a mining history (silver, copper and lead) stretching back for more than 1,000 years.  Actually, surface mining started there already in the bronze age, more than 3,000 years ago.

Oozing mine-hill
Since 1992, the visitor mine of Rammelsberg has become a UNESCO World heritage site with a scenic and historic town of Goslar close by  >>>
 

The mining went on until those very localized ore deposits got largely exhausted, leaving behind the hill that was like a sponge inside – full of ancient or more recent shafts and tunnels.  And that became a problem. With access of surface water and air, the "aerated" hill has become oozing acid produced by happy microbes that just thrived in that environment. The mining terminated but there is just no stopping those eager microbes. The acid that they produce keeps leaching even traces of heavy metals left behind and these are toxic, poisoning local creeks and rivers. So that was my connection with this particular location in Germany. And by the way, the problem is still not solved, since that would probably require covering the whole mountain in concrete – to prevent water and air from getting in and feeding those busy bugs. So far, the pressing environmental problem may only be somewhat better contained - hopefully..
High-energy people

Several times I spent some vacation time with my German (and Czech-German) friends. Only to realize how those busybodies vibrate all the time. If vacations are supposed to be a relax time, the Grmans have it all confused. They go shooting wild river rapids only to hop from kayaks onto windsurfers and when they fall off those they race swimming. In winter time they just change that equipment for skis or snow-boards and falling off those – perhaps a little hang-gliding ? They are so freaking active ! High-energy people, crazy level of activity – historically, no wonder then that they have been shaking the rest of Europe for a couple of thousands of years.
Drinking radler

And now, I would like to interject here my own story that has to do with drinking – and thus, of course, with Germany too. A brief fact first - if you didn’t know that, Czechs are the world’s number one in beer consumption per capita (148.6 litres/year).  And I personally never could drink more than 2 pints max in the whole evening !  Out with me! – Tongue in cheek, I claim that I had to emigrate to protect that nation’s record.  And then in Germany I discovered what I really like drinking – half-beer-half-lemonade, beer with Seven-Up or such.  The beer connoisseurs Czechs still frown at that weird mixture – and in my defence, I must educate everybody: I learned this mix in Germany, right in Bavaria – the very cradle of the European beer-making - and beer drinking.  
No more discussion about it – Bavarians call the mixture “Radler”, so there ! And that is Germany’s direct contribution to my own well-beeing,  Prosit !
The Fest

Everybody has heard of the Munich Octoberfest. Not everybody there dresses in lederhosen (leather pants), but some do – and many greet you “Gruss Gott!”

Germany’s Bavaria is a one of the most beautiful parts of the world. Scenic with majestic Alps around, warm people, manicured countryside, dotted with lakes, wild rivers as well as ancient castles – just bucolic, fairy tale surroundings. On par with Austria that I call “the completed country” – not a single adorning flower could be added there. All has been done -


And hearty eating - German cuisine :

The southern regions of Germany, including Bavaria and neighbouring Swabia, share many dishes. Austrian cuisine and parts of the Swiss cuisine are very similar. This originates in common religious and cultural history. Southern Germany, Austria, and the northern part of Switzerland are mainly Catholic, so religious fasting rules for Friday, Lent and Advent, even if no longer widely practiced, have influenced the cuisine.
Germany has the second-highest number of Michelin starred restaurants, after France.
Pork, beef, and poultry are the main varieties of meat consumed in Germany, pork being the most popular. Average annual meat consumption is 61 kg (134 lb).
Among poultry, chicken is most common, although duck, goose, and turkey are also consumed. Game meats, especially boar, rabbit, and venison are also widely available all year round. Lamb and goat are less popular.
Meat is usually braised; pan-fried dishes also exist, but these recipes usually originate from France and Austria. Several cooking methods used to soften tough cuts have evolved into national specialties, including Sauerbraten (sour roast), involving marinating beef, horse meat or venison in a vinegar or wine vinegar mixture over several days.
A long tradition of sausage-making exists in Germany; more than 1500 different types of sausage (Wurst) are made  >>>

UAE – United Arab Emirates

This was not my first encounter with the Middle East. Granted, a little deeper than “middle”.

The first time was a refueling stop in Sharjah on my return flight from Thailand some years ago. That time, walking the Sharjah airport deep at night (at 1 am), I was shocked seeing all the jewelry shops open – for just a few transit passengers. Gold and smiles everywhere ! 

Some time later, upon an invitation to examine a PhD thesis at the University of UAE in Al Ain, I landed in Dubai to be impressed even more.  At the edge of a desert - more gold and affluence to the max that, unfortunately, I did not have much time to examine.

UAE - located in the southeast end of the Arabian Peninsula on the Persian Gulf, bordering Oman to the east and Saudi Arabia to the south, as well as sharing sea borders with Qatar and Iran. In 2013, the UAE's total population was 9.2 million, of which 1.4 million are Emirati citizens and 7.8 million are expatriates.  Established in December 1971, the country is a federation of seven emirates. The constituent emirates are Abu Dhabi (which serves as the capital), Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras al-Khaimah, Sharjah, and Umm al-Quwain. Each emirate is governed by an absolute monarch; together, they jointly form the Federal Supreme Council.
●  AL AIN

The University limousine was waiting for me at the Dubai airport and whisked me those deserty 150km to Al Ain, an inland city. A former major oasis at the foot of rugged mountains – the springs still there.

 

●  United Arab Emirates University is the first and oldest of the three government-sponsored institutions of higher learning in the UAE.

At the College of Engineering, I admired advanced lab equipment as well as the type of research conducted. 
To my surprise, it appeared that Engineering studies there are populated by women, whereby men tend to major in business education - surely learning more than only how to sell oil and to buy and sell gold. No women in business.
For women undergraduate studies there is a separate Women Campus in Al Ain. 

●  Rich DUBAI 
Dubai is certainly a "phenomenon" of our age. Although I may have my opinions on its longer-term sustainability. In contrast to its insane opulence, the place is not even capable of handling its own sewage ! When we dispose of the insincere 'political correctness', appropriate for Dubai perhaps is the label of utter irresponsibility and self-centered disregard for sustainability. Built on the foundations that rip off the earth's riches it contributes so little towards well-being of the mankind. To the contrary, slave-labor conditions of immigrant workforce in Dubai cannot escape attention.
Is it really necessary to own a gold-plated Lamborghini with a cheetah ?
For a rather arrogant show off - just like all the gold in the jewelry shops. Oh, that vain and greedy human race !  Leaves one wondering if we really could be all that proud of ourselves ?
However, I have not had the pleasure of spending much time in Dubai. It certainly is worth expanding on a bit more. But even this little exposure made me reflect and think a good deal.
It naturally offers a comparison with Singapore's growth to riches - on quite a different basis though. Simply "different people" in Dubai and I could add - apparently not 'better'.

And WHY is Dubai so rich ? The following 'borrowed' video tries to explain Dubai riches in mere 2-and-half minutes. Just be prepared for "the largest" and "billions"  - but all considered, these statistics may not mean all that much and certainly don't tell the whole story :

And what do they eat in the UAE ?
●  Emirati cuisine is a blend of many Middle Eastern and Asian cuisines.
The modern diet of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) is cosmopolitan, featuring dishes from around the world. A lot of people confuse Levantine food as being Emirati/Khaleej, but shawarma, hummous, tabbouleh, and mixed grill, whilst having similar characteristics, are fairly recent additions and do not do justice to the "soul food" that makes up the Emirati menu.
Seafood has been the mainstay of the Emirati diet for centuries. The UAE cuisine is a reflection of a great Arabian heritage and vast exposure to civilizations over time.
Muslims are prohibited from eating pork, so it is not included in Arab menus. Meat, fish, and rice are the staple foods of the Emirati cuisine. Lamb and mutton are the more favored meats, then goat and beef. An Emirati specialty is camel meat.
Hotels frequently have pork substitutes such as beef sausages and veal rashers on their breakfast menus. If pork is available, it is clearly labeled as such.
Popular beverages are coffee and tea, which can be supplemented with cardamom, saffron, or mint to give it a distinct flavor.
Alcohol is generally only served in hotel restaurants and bars (but not in Sharjah).
All nightclubs and golf clubs are permitted to sell alcohol. Specific supermarkets may sell pork, but are sold in separate sections.
Dishes forming part of the Emirati cuisine include:

• Al Jabab bread
• Camel meat
• Dates
• Fish
• Kabsa 
• Khabees
• Sheep
• Yeast bread

 

SINGAPORE – Village that Roars

The English name of Singapore is derived from the Malay word, Singapura , which was in turn derived from Sanskrit (Singa is "lion", Pura "city"), hence the customary reference to the nation as the Lion City.

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And because it has been a port location, its symbol is the "Merlion".

My last sabbatical year was broken into several parts – one of them took place in Singapore as I was invited by the National University of Singapore (NUS).  NUS is ranked among the top 13 in the world, it is a research-intensive, comprehensive university with an entrepreneurial dimension. NUS's main campus is located in Queenstown, Singapore, entirely within its own subzone, with an area of 1.76 kmsq ^.   The National University of Singapore has 16 faculties and schools across three campus locations in Singapore – Kent Ridge, Bukit Timah and Outram – and provides a broad-based curriculum producing top-notch professional graduates.

Singapore

The city-state of Singapore is a fascinating location. From a colonial fishing village it developed into a global commerce, finance and transport hub, world’s 3^rd largest foreign exchange centre. And most of this development took only the past 50 years !

The story of Singapore is the one of an amazing transformation – from a port village to a high-tech and financial center with a world-based economy. The core principles of this hard-driving and pragmatic nation are meritocracy, multiculturalism and secularism. It is noted for its effective, pragmatic and incorrupt governance and civil service, which together with its rapid development policies, is widely cited as the "Singapore model".

Since the 1970s, Singapore has also been widely known as the Garden City, owing to its extensive greening policy covering the whole island, a priority of its first prime minister Lee Kuan Yew, dubbed the nation's "Chief Gardener" – and the originator of its current success. This island city-nation is a lively demonstration of the fact that being BIG is NOT necessary for people to live well.  We live in a democratic world – and I take my hat off to the spirit of this place.
Having had the opportunity to witness the “Singapore miracle”, one cannot help but ask – why the rest of the world could not be like that ?

Following the mainly British colonization since 1819, Singapore gained a complete independence in 1965.  It celebrated its Golden jubilee in 2015 – the same year that its first founding prime minister, Lee Kuan Yew died. He had 'personified Singapore to the world' for nearly half a century.  This cosmopolitan nation is now home to 5.5 million residents, 38% of whom are permanent residents and other foreign nationals. Singaporeans are mostly bilingual, with English as their common language and a second mother-tongue language. Its cultural diversity is reflected in its extensive "hawker" cuisine and major ethnic festivals—Chinese, Malay, Indian, Western.
 

Beaches

Being an island, Singapore is surrounded by water – where are its beaches, I wondered. No, it is not known for seaside enjoyment. But there are plenty of sun-and-water worshipers like myself. So, when mother nature does not provide close enough in Singapore, they built beaches themselves.
Like those on the little pleasure island of Sentosa. 
And whisk you there also by cable car which originates from Mount Faber and passes through HarbourFront en route to its final destination at Imbiah lookout. It is amazing to float above the city, including its harbor – and end up on a beach.
Of course that there are many other beaches around Singapore – after all, it is a seaside ‘village’.  And yes, I got sunburned, momentarily forgetting that I was almost on the equator.

Eating in Singapore :
Singaporean cuisine is diverse and contains elements derived from several ethnic groups, as a result of its history as a seaport with a large immigrant population. Influences include the cuisines of the native Malays and the largest ethnic group, the Chinese, as well as Indonesian, Indian, Peranakan, and Western traditions

Dining out is a national pastime for Singaporeans who most often eat at hawker centres, coffee shops or food courts rather than restaurants, due to its convenience, wide range of options and affordability. These hawker centres are widespread, cheap and may feature hundreds of stalls in a single complex, with each stall offering its own specialty dishes. The NUS campus where I was had several such student “canteens” as they are called there – large or cozy small, with quite a broad ethnic meal selection.  Niam-niam -